This list was created by Rajendra Datta rajen acm. Other people have since contributed to it, and it is now being maintained by Joseph Poutre joseph. This list is intended to include all plastic and resin model ship kits. From the beginning, this list was intended to be a non-commercial site, in the tradition of the pre-commercialized internet.

There is no advertising, and it is available to modellers for free. It is written by and intended for ship modellers. Our goal is to improve the hobby of ship modelling, by making it easier to select good kits, and to provide information on how to fix some of the problematical ones.

While this is a non-commercial site, we are not anti-commercial. Most of us actually like the model industry, and we're happy that they support our hobby. We would even encourage the model companies to read our reviews, so that they can make better kits. Wholesalers and retailers could also benefit from this site by buying more of the highly rated kits. This will benefit modellers as well, by getting more good kits into the hobby shops. Because this is a non-commercial site, we cannot accept reviews from kit manufacturers, retailers, wholesalers, or importers.

We do accept other information kit lists, basic kit data, etc. This material should be considered copyright by the authors. This material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit permission of the author s as long as the text is used exactly as is except for reformatting and the author is given full written credit for the material.

Hobby retailers may display this information as a consumer guide, but may not sell it. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the authors. Frank is our resident expert on HMS Hood. Make sure that you check out his website at HMSHood. Yes, that Larry Bond. Creator of the Harpoon gaming system. Co-author of Red Storm Rising DRW.

Rajen is a fellow escapee from Bell Labs. We started the list over pizza and root beer while we were still both employed there. Rajen has become busy with business and family in recent years as of so he hasn't been doing much ship modelling lately. A good fellow, though. Rod is another "good guy" who has helped me in numerous ways.

His modelling tastes seem to be ecclectic, like my own, and he has reviewed a wide variety of kits. Tom Dougherty is our resident submarine guru. When I have a sub question, I go to him. Michael is a net. He is a pragmatic modeller, and quite fond of scratchbuilding and conversions. Make sure you check out his web page at www. Gernot is another early contributor to the list. He knows IJN subjects extremely well. He has high standardsand from the pictures I've seen on the net, he produces excellent work.

Graeme is a newcomer to the list as of latebut he's no newcomer to the world of ship modeling. Check out his site: Bill is our resident expert on US Coast Guard subjects, and also very well versed on the subject of sailing ships. Make sure you check out Bill's USCG Model Kit list.

Peter is another helpful fellow. Jodie Peeler never fails to impress. Her knowledge of liners and aircraft carriers especially Essex class is truly amazing, but don't think she's limited to just those. If that weren't enough, she's also a fan of turbine cars and airliners. Allan was one of my first ship modelling friends on the internet. We virutally met back in the early s on the newsgroup rec.

He was one of the first contributors to this list, and still gets a few words in now and then. Joe Poutre is a good friend, a fellow New Jerseyan, and my co-conspirator on numerous projects. I have watched his modelling skills steadily improve, and he's probably better than me by now. He shares my sense of the bizzare, and it's always fun making up "hypothetical" ships with him.

Tim Reynaga has been an enourmous help. His knowledge goes back many decades, and he knows things about obscure old manufacturers that I never would have found.

He also seems to have a taste for really small scale ships. Brooks has been enormously helpful to us in researching old kits from long-gone manufacturers. His tastes are often similar to my own. Leif is another early contributor to the list. He gave us his list of Airfix kits, and this became the basis for our Airfix section.

Matt Stein started writing reviews for the List in He started a resin casting business, Matt Stein Models in July All of his reviews were written prior to that date. Floridian Bill Swan is a newcomer as ofbut he provided an incredible number of resin ship kit reviews for Version 6. He has impressed me with his knowledge of Steel era and WW1 era battleships. I might have a few differences of opinion with him on the waterline vs. I really want to see his "team of trained spiders"!

Doug is another newcomer as of He tells me that he's a member of the Washington Ship Model Society, and that he's working on a history of the USS Wolverine IX and USS Sable IX DRW. My advice is to buy Skywave armament sets to replace the often 's era kit parts, and use aftermarket PE sets for the particular type of ship to get an overall increase in quality without waiting for someone to retool the kit.

My opinion of FAIR would be GOOD if not for the replacement masts etc. I consider necessary to produce a good kit. A Note on kit numbering: The first two digits identify the company, and the issue batch among other things. Recently, new series numbers have been give, advertised on the box top as "NO. Where there is a new series, it is noted.

Gernot has a point, I do tend to build out of the box, and I usually only fix gross, obvious errors. I prefer to modify the plastic parts from the kit than to scratchbuild or add PEB. I admit that there is a point, though, beyond which kit parts aren't worth fixing, and parts substitution becomes more practical.

My main area of interest is the Kreigsmarine and I am knowledgeable of modern warships having served 21 years in the United States Navy and retired as a Master Chief Petty Officer. I had heard rumors that Academy had obtained the Tamiya molds for the Bismarck.

After picking up the kit, I feel comfortable assuring anyone that this is not the case. I do wish though, that I could have had access to a Tamiya kit to make the comparison up close. The first thing you will notice about the box are the words "Static Model" in the lower left corner of the box lid -- more on this later, and the fact that the box art is rather poorly done.

On to the inside! The kit's deck is molded in three sections. The middle section is designed to be removed for access to the battery box and electric motor mounts. That, apparently, is why the words static model show up on the lid. The multi piece deck leaves two very distinct seems running from beam to beam on the model. Filling and sanding them will destroy some of the deck planking, represented by raised detail.

The larger cable reels are molded separately from the deck, while the smaller ones are part of the deck, as is the anchor chain.

The anchor chain looks to be too small for what it is supposed to represent. The Arado seaplane's struts are molded in one piece, similar to the float-equipped British Spitfire, and the Iron Cross insignia are molded into the wings, ala Aurora. The catapult is simply a blank plastic strip, with no detail on it at all. The flag sheet is frankly, pathetic. The swastika on the battle flag looks like a pinwheel; an aftermarket flag is a must here. The remainder of the kit appears to be well done.

Comparing some of the brass parts to the plastic ones in the kit left me with the impression that Academy did a pretty good job on the majority of this model.

Of particular note are the photoetched radar antenna and the struts and props for the Arado. They make a real difference.

This will be my first experience with photoetch detail of this magnitude, and it looks like it will really compliment the model. First of all, the kits for Bismarck and Tirpitz are the same and both resemble rather Tirpitz than Bismarck. Box pictures show Bismarck in baltic camouflage in both cases.

The drawing on Tirpitz box is signed "N. The kit is motorized with one electric motor which is fed by one AA battery. Machinery supplied with the kit looks fine. There is the only shaft and the only rudder. Shaft holder grease is supplied with the kit as well as the cement.

Hull consists of two parts - underwater red plastic and everything else grey. So, you may build waterline model if you like. Belt transition into forecastle and stern is somehow coarse. One could try and fix both issues it with careful cutting and sanding. Deck plancking and details are ok except wavebreakers which are too bold.

Carefull cutting may be of use here. Anchor racks are missing anchors are molded right on the deck level which requires gentle fixing.

Material thickness in the bow part of a hull is hopefully enough to apply cutting and deeping in the right place. Bow anchor rake and bow anchor itself are missing, yet bow anchor chain is molded on the deck.

There are no torpedo tubes supplied or molded. No floatplanes are supplied as well. Catapult details are poor. Turrets are of slightly strange shape but still resemble the real ones. Model has one major feature which may be considered as a big disadvantage or as real fun. Indeed, second port 5. Instead, room is made for motor switch which comes as a gear leaning out of the hull right in place of turrets mentioned. No wonder that the assembly instructions show the model viewed from starboard, not from the port!

Carefull tweaking and applying extra turrets of proper scale may fix the problem. One might configure motor switch leaning through the funnel. I plan to abandon the switch at all, and to circuit the battery to the motor directly. I should take care for proper balancing the model in this case and to compensate the switch absence.

That is just an idea anyway. ASReview dated 25 May Said to have been issued around I have not built this kit, or even seen it out of the box, but from the dimensions and the photo on the box, it looks suspiciously like the Monogram kit with a different stand. This kit has been issued at various times as:. May be related to the Minicraft Spruance kit.

May be related to the Minicraft Ticonderoga kit. Presumably, this is a close relative of the Academy Bismarck kit. Happily, this is not the case.

An entirely original effort, this Titanic is a much better model, cleanly molded and easy to assemble. While I'm no Titanic expert, the kit's proportions are convincing and the completed model looks like the great ship. Academy's Titanic seems to have been designed with younger or more casual modelers in mind.

The complex structures of the original are broken down into relatively few assemblies so that the model can be built up quickly. Nevertheless, the large amount of attractive molded on detail keeps it from looking too toylike. The crisp, precise moldings were a pleasure to handle with no flash, sink marks, or visible ejector pin marks anywhere. The parts are molded in black, white and tan plastic with components broken down so that one could build a nice looking Titanic model without painting it.

Decks are in tan, for example, and the white strip along the forecastle above the ship's name is a separate part molded in white to be attached to the black hull. The result is basic but effective. This clever pre-coloring of parts is actually a return to the very roots of plastic ship modeling, like Revell's Taney and Eastwind kits from the early s.

Another nod to less experienced modelers although useful for all of us! As a more experienced modeler I was less than thrilled with the simplified assemblies which in places look a bit chunky, and the prominent hull plating, though dramatic, is overdone for the scale. Much could be improved with the application of photoetch, but the simplified molded in details and that plating mean that creating an accurate scale model from this kit would require a significant amount of work.

Perhaps the best way to experience this model is to take it as Academy's designers aparently intended it: The box art isn't bad at all but it quickly goes down hill from there. I cannot and would not recommend this kit to anyone! This is another example of a company that has not properly researched the ship, submarine, that they have put on the market. This kit is nothing more than a "toy" that needs assemblyrather than a scale model.

On the side of thebox it has this statement:. Contains optional parts to build as a static display model or a motorized diving submarine". As a "static display model", it fails miserably because of the lack of attention to simple detail in all areas - hull, deck, and conning tower.

The only way that this kit should be built as a static display model is in a waterline configuration. Even as a waterline model it will require extensive work to get it even close to what a Type IXB should look like. I am not even sure that it would be worth the man-hours. Include the motor, add batteries and give it to a 5 year old. Kit rates a "blech". See Jodie Peeler's review of the Life Like re-issue of this kit. Originally issued by Adams circa This Santa Maria molding originated as one of the Gowland Shipyard "Ships in Bottles" releases in It was also issued by Airfix beginning in and most recently in Airfix's revised full hull version by Heller in the s.

Admiralty Model Works West Colonial Drive Suite Winter Garden, Florida USA. Their website is http: Armed like a battlecruiser with 15 inch guns and armored like a light cruiser she was officially classified as a large light cruiser. This bizarre vessel saw light service in WW1 and was eventually converted into an aircraft carrier and was sunk by the Germans in the opening days of WW2.

Interestingly, her main battery turrets removed for the conversion to an aircraft carrier wound up being installed on the last battleship of the Royal Navy, HMS Vanguard which was finished after the end of WW2. This model depicts the ship in her battlecruiser large light cruise guise. Admiralty also has released the sister ship to Courageous, HMS Glorious in a later fit that includes aircraft flying off platforms but not yet as a full fledged aircraft carrier which she too was converted into.

The massive one piece hull and lower superstructure is simply gorgeous and packed with detail. I'm basically speechless in trying to describe the quality of the casting in this kit. It isn't just flawless and highly detailed, it is incredible.

You cannot buy a better kit in ANY medium than this kit. It is complete and needs nothing else to create a stunning ship model. What else can I say? Multipage, highly detailed, expertly drawn, line drawings, exploded views and color plates are some of the best directions that you can ever have. In addition to assembly and painting directions text in English, colors called out in White Ensign Models Colourcoatsthere are also clear and concise rigging directions.

Among the best directions in the industry. My kit was packed with an inner box that was actually a clear plastic display case! All parts bubble wrapped in plastic bags with foam peanuts in all the voids. Admiralty is a newcomer to the resin ship maker's club but they are far and away one of the best in the business. The kit depicts the vessel in with flying off platforms on both turrets.

The ship was at best a white elephant for the RN in this configuration but an interesting subject for the modeler. Glorious began the conversion to an aircraft carrier in and served as such in WW2. She was sunk by Scharnhorst and Gneisenau. This kit is without a doubt one of the finest resin kits ever produced. The only negative, a minor one at that, is dealing with the scores of incredibly tiny detail parts in both resin and photo etch. This will require a steady hand and a good bit of skill.

Brilliant, multi-page drawings and text that are among the very best in the business. Heavy cardboard box decorated with a color illustration of the ship. The hull is bubble wrapped and carefully taped. All other parts are bagged and taped in place to reduce movement.

Everything is then surrounded in foam peanuts. I have an Advent BONHOMME RICHARD which is clearly the Revell Essex-Class SCB The Advent kit has Revell copyright on sprues and also on the instruction sheet. I'm pretty sure that the Advent Ticonderoga is indeed the old Renwal kit.

Reissue of the Revell Buckley.

Apparently, the same as Revell's Eastwind kit, though some have suggested that the kit is incorrect for the Burton Island. Reissue of the Revell Ward. Reissue of the Revell Eagle. Reissue of the Revell Enterprise. Thanks to Rob Theriaque for finding the information on this kit. Reissue of the Revell Intrepid. Reissue of the Revell Flying Cloud. Reissue of the Revell Montrose. Reissue of the Renwal North Carolina. Reissue of the Revell Olympia. Reissue of the Revell Pine Island.

Reissue of the Revell Queen Mary. Reissue of the Revell Ranger. Reissue of the Renwal Essex-Class SCB Reissue of the Revell Revell Soviet Spy Trawler Volga. The kit consists of parts including 72 in grey styrene plastic, 1 in red plastic, 31 etched brass, 7 in clear for the sub's seaplane, plus decals for both the boat and airplane.

Parts are perfectly molded with sharp detail and no flash. The model goes together conventionally, with the two piece hull split at the waterline with a separate underwater hull molded in red.

Fit throughout is excellent, and the entire sub can be assembled in just a few minutes. As with AFV Club's Type VII U-Boat kits, nicely done pressure hulls for the hull and conning tower are included, although they are invisible once the sub is assembled. Even if one were to open up all those hundreds of drain vents along the hull sides, the interior detail could scarcely be seen.

Similarly with the delicate ribbing detail on the inside of the aircraft hangar; nice, but ultimately invisible. Other unusual design features include a moveable deck gun, rudders, and aft dive planes as well as an aircraft crane and antenna tower that can be retracted into the deck. Of only limited appeal to most modelers, these little gimmicks are at least accomplished with no detriment to scale appearance.

Other innovations are more useful. The forward dive planes, for example, are provided as separate parts to depict them as either deployed or retracted. Although it would have been a simple matter to cut the extended hydroplanes and push them inside the hull to show them retracted, the use of a dedicated part for this is a simple, effective construction time saver.

A finely done photoetched bass fret provides railing, small cranes, aircraft components and other parts that could not be done nearly as well by injection molding although many of these parts are also alternatively included in plastic. These provide an added finesse to the model, leaving little, if any, need for aftermarket photoetch. Good as these extras are, it is the extraordinary quality of the basic kit itself that makes it stand out. Starting with solid dimensional accuracy, precise molding and ease of construction, this kit just gets better and better.

The level of detail on the parts is amazing, among the best I have ever seen. The hatches on the main deck, for example, are perfectly molded and even have microscopic handwheels relief-molded on to them. The periscopes, combined with the shears as a single part, are unbelievably fine with all the distinctive details on the periscope heads cast in scale.

The guns, binocular mounts, rangefinder and other small fittings are uniformly excellent. The Yokosuka E14Y "Glen" floatplane is a tiny sixteen-part kit in itself with its own decals and photoetch.

It even includes two miniscule incendiary bombs with correct shape and fin detail. If I were to offer any criticisms of the kit at all they would be minor ones: The decal hinomaru "meatballs" for the aircraft are slightly off register, and markings are provided only for the I, although there were 29 of the type B-1 Otsu-gata submarines, some of them well known.

These really are nitpicks, though. The big Japanese companies had better watch out, because the Chinese are on the move! Comes with decals for both US and ROC Knox-class frigates. Nice detail, no sink holes.

While I have never seen a Skywave Knox-can, this kit sure looks like a Skywave mold. I adapted mine to full hull by widening a DML Perry lower hull and adding a SQS sonar dome from an ARII Spruance.

Bilge keels will have to be scratchbuilt for this conversion. I don't think this is a Skywave derivative; there are multiple differences in parts. The ASROC launcher, 5" gun, and Phalanx are all moulded differently than their Skywave equivalents. Plus, they include a correct SH-2 helo, which Skywave doesn't even produce, even in those ships that are supposed to carry it.

This is the same kit as the DML. Good kit that builds very well right from the box. Some minor fit issues but no worse than the average plastic kit.

List of Ship Kits

Props are a little crude but can be made nice with a little sanding. Sinkmarks on the two turrets need minor filling. Good instructions and decent decals. Just build it clean and apply a light wash and you'll have a fine little model. This five-kit combination set is a reissue of the World War Two Soviet types D, L, S, Shch, and M submarines previously marketed by NovoMaquetteEncore Modelsand probably others.

Evidently produced by the same Soviet model kit design team sometime during the Cold War, each of the subs is a separate injection molded plastic kit. The kits build into full hull models ranging from five to seven and a half inches in length.

Though not of the highest quality, these old Soviet-era model kits are very inexpensive and generally accurate.

Reissue of the Revell Boston. Reissue of the Revell Hope. Reissue of the Revell Long Beach. Reissue of the Revell Mission Capistrano.

Reissue of the Revell PT I built the AHM version of this kit many years ago, which was a reissue of Revell's PT with different decals. The model was one of Revell's very first nautical releases, dating originally from It has been reissued may times over the years as PT, PT, PTas part of the "Admiral's Fleet" and "Victory at Sea" combination kits, and by AHM as PT The model depicts a Higgins 78 foot PT, definitely not a Vosper as some have thought.

It is a very old kit, but parts fit and details are fairly good. The full hull is a single piece molding. Designed during Revell's infamous "flat bottom boats" era, this kit actually has a nicely rendered hull with an accurate chine, perhaps to aid operation one version issued in the s came with a motor.

The deck and deckhouse come molded as a single unit, with other details either separate small parts or molded directly to the deck. Some of the surface detail looks good, but the dinghy is molded to the forecastle as is a coiled mooring line-not very convincing in this relatively large scale.

Torpedoes and 20mm Oerlikons are separate pieces, but the latter have gunner figures cast directly to them, which is a real problem if you don't want to include figures! Actually, the most notable aspect of the kit is those three very nicely sculpted crew figures. A very innovative feature for the time, they were created by master sculptor Anthony D.

Bulone, best known as the sculptor of the original Mattel Barbie doll. Not one of Revell's best, it is still an attractive, simple kit good for a quick, fun build. Airfix was founded in as a toy company. Their first model ship was apparently the Golden Hind, first produced in the early s. Airfix was purchased by Humbrol parent company of Heller in They did, however re-issue some of their older ships kits.

By Augustthe company fell into grave financial problems again. In NovemberAirfix was sold to model train manufacturer Hornby, who announced their intention to move production to China. Prices are usually reasonable. A few of their early battleship models, Iron Duke and Warspite have an odd problem with their main guns. They have flared tips, like the flash suppressors on some AA guns. These flares should not be there, and they should be sanded down so that the barrels taper normally.

Check out their web site at http: All warships are made in light gray plastic. All passenger ships are made in white plastic except QE 2 which is made in a very light grey plastic. These kits are from the 's. These are some of the oldest and most primitive Airfix kits.

The first five Golden Hind, Santa Maria, Shannon, Victory, Cutty Sark of them seems to have existed in two variants, an early waterline model with a "modelled sea" base and a later full-hull model with cradle, the last three were all full models with cradle.

Several of these have been re-released lately as "Special Editions". Detail is medium, Appearance: Needs some slight mods at the stern, but otherwise, the hull is nice.

Series 4, ; No of parts: My second kit bought a few years ago was in slightly worse shape than my first, but still recommended. This ship makes a presentable model built OOB. Options include placement of antenna cranes and aircraft elevators. Carley floats are separate parts, 4. Aircraft are Swordfish and Fulmers, wings of which appear a bit thick.

Could use some better painting instructions, but research is part of the fun. Series 2, first issued in This series set the standard for injection molded "wargame scale" models back in the s, and the Ark Royal is among the best of them.

The model consists of 42 medium gray plastic parts, all cleanly molded with almost no flash. The above water hullform is accurate with the distinctive knuckle forward and large flight deck overhang aft credibly depicted. There aren't any decals, but six very nice Fairy Fulmars are provided.

One of the things I had liked about that larger version was the open boat decks molded as separate parts fixed to the inside of the hull. I also liked the open sides on the anchor and aftermarket winchester model 12 stocks for sale decks fore and aft which created a realistic see-through effect.

Not only that, they managed effectively to engineer the whole thing as a clip-together! The control island comes as a nine part assembly.

Throughout the model surface detailing is discreet yet effective. On the flight deck the lifts, arrestor gear, and a barrier are represented as subtly raised detail, and the forward catapults are recessed.

The dozens of portholes on the hull sides are represented by tiny raised discs with dimpled centers. I would have preferred holes, but at least the disks are consistent and sharp. They actually look pretty good once painted. Liferafts and anchors are molded directly to the hull sides, but they are well done and are convincing in this small scale.

The eight separately molded 4. The smaller weapons are molded directly to the galleries; fortunately the six 2 pounder pom-pom mounts and eight. They look quite good. The four rangefinders, molded with their mounts as separate pieces, are first-rate.

Similarly with the other small details; the boat cranes and antennas, although molded solid, have delicate raised detail suggesting their lattice structures. If only Airfix had chosen to include some Swordfish as well Airfix released only a few of them before abandoning the scale in the early s, but they remain among the finest ships that company ever produced. The Ark Royal is a first-rate little model-if you can find one, build it!

It is very detailed, and it builds up very buying stock at walmart except for one piece of the forward superstructure. This kit also makes an excellent source of parts for other British cruisers. It can be kitbashed with an Airfix Tiger to make various Colony class cruisers, or you can cut it down a bit to make earlier City class cruisers.

Buy it if you can find it. Sadly they left the water line out so you will have do some extra work when masking for painting.

Otherwise it competes with Repulse as Airfix's best ship model. This kit is the best I have seen from Airfix. The details are more crisply molded than in any of the many Airfix ship kits I have built. The kit represents the ship as she appeared in WWII, not in the modernized appearance she now has as a museum ship.

I painted my model to show the ship as she would have appeared at the time of her best known action, the Battle of North Cape. This kit has nice detail on turrets, cranes and air intakes. It includes two Walrus aircraft, one on the catapult and one with wings folded, protruding from the hanger.

Use of PE will emphasize the overall quality of molded detail on this model. This is a real challenge for the one who wants to correct details. The armour belt is too low, the water line is too low, all decks are wrongly shaped, the deck details are missing. Still a quite impressive kit when you are a kid and don't care about such details. The boxtop says the model is intended to " The 50 gray plastic parts telemarketing jobs from home in maryland into a basic but good looking little battleship.

The waterlined hull is a single part with a solid bottom and separate single-piece main deck, so there are none of those annoying mid-deck seams so common on larger scale kits.

This is good since the raised deck planking is amazingly delicate; in fact it is some of the best I've seen in any scale. Assorted deck hardware is also well done with bitts, hatches, vents, and other details sharply depicted. Unfortunately, the model doesn't quite capture the graceful yet solid lines of the original. Also, the armor belt is too low and the prominent portholes are missing. Worse, the funnel, superstructures and turrets aft are placed too far back.

This problem isn't too noticeable until you get to the fantail, which is about 20 scale feet too short. As one might expect in a clip-together kit designed for wargaming, the superstructure is simplified and lacking in detail.

The distinctive spherical hoods of the 4m type SL-8 antiaircraft directors are molded integrally with the superstructure, represented as rounded tops on the mounts rather than as spherical shapes.

Also, the aft mounts shouldn't have the hoods at all unless you intend to build the model as the Tirpitz. The two-part funnel is hollow with an open grating nicely represented on the top. Main turrets are ok, except that the barrels are about 6 scale feet too long and the rangefinder hoods extend too far down the sides-but they are fixable. The mm secondary turrets have simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long, but they're useable too. Smaller parts vary in quality from fair to excellent.

The best parts are the ship's boats, 37mm, and mm antiaircraft guns. Too bad Airfix hasn't reissued it since the s! Appearence destroyed by clumsy davits. The tiny details are too heavy. Series 5, pre; No of parts: Participated in the Falkland war. A typical Airfix liner, comparable to the quality of the Queen Elizabeth and possibly a bit better. Fit is fine to me, although stacking all those decks solar ingress stock market be an adventure!

This kit represents the liner in her as-built appearance, with First-Class game deck open. Ship soon had this deck opening covered over and short extentions added to the twin funnels.

Major item that needed changing on kit was mast structure, which was a little undersized and oversimplified. Will still make a nice-looking model built OOB. Great decal sheet with deck markings and nice bow herald. The first Airfix ship. First kits had a special base cradle, later kits had standard base cradles. I seem to recall that the hull is several scale feet too shallow keel to deck. Brookscomment dated 20 February Actually, my measurements say quite the opposite.

It's several feet too deep. I compared the kit to some Admiralty drawings on one estrategia de tendencia forex my reference books. The kit measures about. The drawings suggest that it should be about. I think there were some fitting problems with this model.

There is an excellent guide to detailing in Airfix magazine guide 7 PSL LS. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine April Someone on Internet informed that the superstructure was incorrectly positioned, I have not checked that myself. With a little work, it can be accurate. According to legend, the forward superstructure should be pushed slightly more forward.

The Sea Slug isn't that good, but it would be hard to do better. A photoetch Sea Slug launcher is called for, but I don't really expect to ever see one. Up until recently,I didn't realize how bad the Sea Cat launchers were. I didn't even recognize them as Sea Cat launchers! The superstructure, deck and armaments are acceptable for an early war boat. There are some problems, but they can be fixed. For example, the vastly oversized depth charge racks should be discarded.

The hull, however, is incorrect in profile and cross section. Most obviously, it is missing the pronounced bow knuckle that was a feature of all but the early experimental boats. There are other problems of proportion and shape that will become immediately evident upon comparison to technical drawings. If you use the hull directly from my strategy earnings on binary option kit, your model will not show off the sleek lines that made the Schnellboot an elegant and powerful small combatant.

I wonder why they didn't include the Fearless? It makes you wish that Airfix made an Invincible, or a Hermes, or a Type 42, or a Type 22 or Series 3, ; 2 helicopters, 2 landing craft included; No of parts: A slightly uneven model, in some places the details are really great, in some just ok but you won't be disappointed if you buy this kit.

It even has decent detail in the landing craft as well. The Sea Cat launchers aren't that great, but otherwise OK. I wonder why they never issued this kit with the decals for Intrepid Send in the Royal Marines! This ship, made famous in Operation Corporate, was one of the more fun to build models in my collection.

In the USN, it would be classed as a "Landing Ship Dock". The ship has a well deck in the stern that can accomodate landing barges. Normally dry, this well can be flooded and a stern gate lowered to launch these craft. In addition to this, there is a large flightdeck just aft of the superstructure with five helispots.

This can be used by either helicopters or Harrier fighters, giving the ship the capability of a small aircraft carrier. The ship is further armed with two single 40mm guns on the bridge wings, and short-range AA missles. A friend of mine served on the USS Nashville, and seeing my model under construction, opined that it was very close to his old ship in layout.

Quality of detail on this model is inconsistent. The landing barges are pretty good, the two helicopters are so-so, andreas gursky stock exchange the 40mm guns are pretty poorly modeled.

Overall, it makes a nice model, especially when some PE railings are added. Series 10, ; Reissued as a Heller kit in ; No of parts: Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine Sep Can be built as a waterline model.

This is a good kit. The hull above water is made of starboard and port parts with a flat bottom. Two pins extruding from the bottom can either be cut off or put into holes in the separate underwater part. The flightdeck is in one giant part. Everything fits together wonderfully well.

Building mine was a dream. The kit includes transparent parts for swimming pool roof and sports roof. To me, a large disappointment. Due to some error in design the front gun turret had not even room to turn.

The kit is quite detailed but somehow it just don't look like the other Airfix kits and for example the masts are the thickest found in an Airfix kit. This model was a disappointment to pivot point binary option strategy system 2016. I felt that the Aurora kit was basically better overall because most of its flaws could be corrected easilier.

This is not the case with the Airfix model. First off while the main turrets are very well shaped and detailed they are a little too small and there still is not enough room for them to turn. Unlike the Aurora kit, you can't simply replace them with two from a Revell Scharnhorst or Gneisenau because as mentioned there isn't even enough room. I also was extremely disappointed with the single 5. I expected the same level of detail as the mounts andreas gursky stock exchange the Narvik DDwhich are beautiful.

Same goes for the 4. They are a little better, but trading 212 indicators, not as good at similar mounts in the Airfix Prinz Eugen. I do not know if the 4. The superstructure was very detailed but the armored tower seemed too short. None of the range finders seemed right compared to pictures I have studied. I do not believe they could be replaced with parts salvaged from other models due to size difference.

Overall, I believe the engraved detail in very good but the layout out and scale problems however lower the overall quality. The smaller Testors Graf Spee is a far better kit, if not the best. RDFreview dated 10 April Series 9, Classic Historical Ships Editor's Note: Said to portray the ship in It's a sound kit but it needs a lot of work to be perfect, the hawse pipes and breakwater needs to be completely rebuilt and lots of derrick and deck details need to be added but I can assure you that the end result is worth all the work.

This is the oldest injection-moulded plastic model of Hood. Since its release init has been periodically reissued a number of times. The kit contains pieces and is a full-hull representation of Hood as she appeared in the mid s.

It suffers from a lack of detail and from large, bulky features. As for the quality of he moulding, it is generally crisp, with a small amount of flash. Vantage fx forex broker reviews sink holes were noted, but a few ejector marks were present. Correct in overall shape, taper and shear, with the exception of the torpedo bulges. These are present, but do not correctly conform to the true shape of the ship's bulges.

The hull also lacks an armour belt. Another odd feature are the open torpedo mantlets. Fortunately, most of these problems can be fixed with a combination of plastic strip stock, putty and a good deal of sanding.

The deck planking is far too wide for the scale. The deck machinery and features ventilators, capstans, winches, hatches are all moulded into the deck and are somewhat bulky for the scale. On the other hand, some items which were prominent on the real ship are not-so-prominent here. One such example is the forward break water.

Another deck planking problem is the forward Shelter Deck- on this model, there are planks. On the real ship, however, this area was painted metal. Mostly accurate in general shape and layout. There are a few notable errors: Both funnels are completely missing their base structures. They have venting around them, but are missing the small rectangular structures that the funnels were situated upon.

Another problem area are the batteries situated on each side of the ship. These areas are completely lacking in detail and accuracy. This can be corrected, but it will take a lot of work. Very thick and bulky. The starfish platforms are poorly done. These can be replaced with ultra-detailed photo-etch starfish by White Ensign Models.

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Boats are largely accurate. They could be a bit more detailed though. The same applies to the various rangefinders and sighting devices.

These are the neatest little guide to stock market investing revised edition correct, but all are somewhat lacking in detail. One major problem to note here are the kit's painting instructions. Hood never had green bridge decks. Please be sure to throw them away and use our detailed Hood painting instructions instead. A good kit for its daybut it looks its age. Fortunately, it can be built-up into a good respresentation of Hood with some aftermarket parts and a good deal of scratchbuilding.

This kit can be found in man stores, or ordered from any of several online model retailers. It is also available the neatest little guide to stock market investing revised edition from the Airfix website. I have a fair amount of sympathy for this kit, since it was the first kit that won me a prize in a model contest, many ages ago.

It represents the Hood somewhere between and The hull is quite nice, but the bilge keels are missing. The level of detail is pretty decent for its day. The planking on the deck was pretty impressive for its time. The main turrets aren't too bad, but they need a bit of reshaping at the front.

I don't like the way the lower parts of the superstructure are implemented. The bulkheads are attached to the deck. This can make both the deck and the bulkheads difficult to paint.

Overall, I'd say it is pretty good for its age, and it can be fixed up pretty easily. If built OOB, this kit will represent Hood as pre refit. Ship still has its 4. A little extra effort goes a long way on this model.

Addition of side platforms on X turret, extra detailing on primary and secondary turrets are easy to add. Addition of PE a big help as always, but model will still look good with detailing and rigging. Series 2, issued in The boxtop says the models are intended to " Happily, this was not the case!

The kit consists two sprues containing 64 well how to make money in nintendogs + cats grey plastic parts depicting the ship as she appeared at the time of her loss in May The model, though measuring a mere eight and one half inches in length, is accurately proportioned and packed with detail. The hull, waterlined with a solid bottom, is correct in overall shape, taper and shear.

The single-piece main deck is provided as a separate piece. Detail on the deck is excellent, including a multitude of hatches, bitts, vents, breakwaters, petite ground tackle, and some amazingly delicate deck planking. The raised planking is especially notable, some of the finest I've seen in any scale.

However, there is an odd discrepancy with the inclusion of torpedo lookout and searchlight platforms on the foremast. Although the fit of the model is correct for the Battle of the Denmark Strait, both these platforms had been removed before Thus the model is incorrect as is, although you could still use them buy bombay stocks you make a few modifications to depict the ship earlier in her career.

Another inaccuracy is the shelter deckdepicted as a straight line rather than with the angular notches the structure actually had. This can be easily fixed, though. Main turrets are good, except that the barrels look too thin; I replaced them with hypodermic needles. The four inch twins are simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long, but they're useable. The 8-barrelled 2pdr pom-poms and UP projectors are very good, but the 0. Other parts vary in quality from good to excellent; masts and cranes are proportional and accurate, and the fire control directors are first-rate.

Given the perennial popularity of the Hood in all scales, it is surprising that Airfix never reissued it Series 1, ; No of parts: Was clearly the best Airfix ship when it appeared. Lots of very small parts. Side scuttles a bit ugly. Some of the portholes are a bit large, drill them out with a constant sized bit it has the "flash suppressors" on the main guns, should be sanded down and the bilge keels are too long, easily trimmed down but otherwise, a nice kit.

A very nice kit with more deck details than any other Airfix ship. The model represents KGV in with her UP batteries. The camouflage scheme is from the first months of KGV's career. It portrays the ship more or less "as built", with UP launchers on B and Y turrets, and the aircraft catapult amidships. The de-gaussing cable on the hull specific to the KGV herself is well done, but it bollinger bands and candlesticks be removed if you want to convert the kit to portray another ship in the class.

My real only criticism is that the 5. The deck details might be a little overdone, and they are difficult to paint. The kit dates back to the mid s. All of these were previously sold as individual kits except for the E-boats which I think were sold as a pair. There is an instruction booklet containing all the assembly instructions and colour schemes detailed below. The painting instructions are fuller and more detailed than previously, and offer several variants, and are referenced to Humbrol paints.

Each type of ship has a descriptive text longer than that in the original kits, and there is an overview of the KM at the front. Decals are provided on quite a lavish scale but all feature the swastika-less version of the ensign. It will be interesting to see if anyone has the space to make the obvious diorama of a Channel port.

It's only a shame that Heller never made the older destroyers and torpedo boats, to make the set really complete. JRCreview dated 15 October, Later editions have Exocet lauchers included. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine guide 7. It's got a decent level of detail, and comes with a choice of 4.

No Ikara launchers or Sea Wolf launchers, though. Scores over the Matchbox Ariadne in every way, except for the lack of mine doors in the stern. Those are easy enough to cut into the plastic. I consider list of investment brokers in india to be the best of the passenger ship kits. Series 1, Historical Ships. Classic Historical Ships LS. The forward missile launcher should be different from the other two.

It ftse 100 binary options an SUW-N-1 launcher for an ASROC type weapon, not an SA-N-3 SAM launcher like the others.

Series 2, on box No of parts: Much like the Manxman kit and a good companion to the other highly detailed Airfix kits like Prinz Eugen and Repulse. Detail on mine rails, gun shields, deckbridge structures and torpedo tubes is excellent. Light AA weapons are poor and there some ejector russian sks aftermarket stocks marks in hard to fix places. This model is of the flotilla leader Z This is a kit of a German Narvik class destroyer Z28 of WW2.

Z28 was unique among the Narviks in having two superfiring main guns forward others had only one single - and later on most units a double turret and a large deckhouse and two superfiring guns aft all others had three guns aft, with two on the after deckhouse.

Number of AA guns increased during the war. An interesting kit indeed. This kit is a joy to build. The review on forex brokers are very nice and the engraved detail is nothing short of awesome.

The detail rivals that of the Repulse. The detail of the single 5. With some research and scratch building you could easily build a complete and very accurate flotilla using this kit. Generally sound but needs a lot of detailing.

Guns are clumsier than the Hood's. The kit represents Nelson as she was in but sadly all the light AA batteries are missing! The latest one I bought in was actually in better shape than the one Karvy stock broking branches in chennai bought some 15 years ago but the mold is now so old that some of the few details were lost. There is a article how to convert the kit to a pre-war variant in "Scale Model International" March A bit lacking in detail, and the main turrets are the wrong shape, but you can make a decent model out of it.

I suspect that they meant to portray the Nelson inwhich could explain the lack of 20mm AA guns. The 40mm Bofors and 2 pounder "pom pom" AA guns are present.

This Nelson is about average for the Airfix kits I've seen, with a rather waxy plastic and crude details. There are some exceptions, e. Not as crisp as Repulse. Note that on some versions a confusing line on the instructions seems to indicate the platform with 2 x 40mm quads should be placed cantilevered from the top of the superstructure instead of on top of the conning chicago board of trade corn futures prices. Scale Modeler magazine actually built theirs that way!

The detail is great and the fit is quite nice except at the stern where a gap is left. It seems the kit represents the Prinz Eugen in the '41 time frame. So if a later time is desired additional light AA guns must be added.

The detail put into the 4. This is the only small scale with elevating 8" guns! The superstructure very accurately scaled and while the Revell kits does a good job or accurately displaying the overall super structure, Trading stocks scalping personally believe this kit is superior to Revell's version.

Removing it is not the problem. It is the repair afterwards. I messed mine up on my first attempt. After you remove the molded on plastic. In photos of the ship, it appears a metal plate was actually mounted on the deck as a chain slip, so this corrects two errors.

The side armor is wrong. First it is too narrow, too long and does not blend in correctly. Fixing this is a real challenge. I left mine in hopes nobody smart enough would notice. Cutting it off and fabricating a new one would require thinning the sides dangerously. Sanding them off will penetrate the hull a little. Applying a thin piece of styrene strip to the inside of the hull covering the indention. After I sanded away the keel, putty and sanded it to shape.

Just add thin styrene strip to replace the molded on keel. As mentioned earlier, the fit at the stern is not good. The deck is to short and leaves a gap about a full millimeter wide.

The bow fits a little better. Filling will be required to fix the stern. So if a later time is desired light AA guns must be added. I really like the effort put into the 4. This is the only small scale with elevating guns! The superstructure seems very accurate. I personally believe this kit to far superior to Revell's version. I emailed Airfix and there are apparently on plans to re-release this kit. Because of the detail of this model and the after market products available you have the options of numerous variants.

I discovered that the twin 5. First you have to cut off the barrels. A little putty and sanding was required to finish the shape. A friend has a great vacuum forming machine and in a jiffy I had ten other projects to triple 5. Other than this the ships structure is unchanged. Since the triple 6in turrets are a little lighter than the twin 8in ones the AA armament is a little heavier.

Use the previous book reference. This kit begs to ask, what happened to the other kits of this era. The Bismarck and Graf Spee are so poorly researched. I emailed Airfix and sadly there are apparently no plans to EVER re-release this kit.

I have a remark to RDF's review. One would reconsider aircraft catapults on Seydlitz CL. According to plans I have, there would have been two catapults, one between funnel and mast as in conventional Hipper-class heavy cruiser, and another one aft the mast.

Issued between andthe series was apparently not very successful as it was soon discontinued and none of the ships was ever reissued. That's a shame, because they were nicely done. Though designed as a clip-together wargaming model, it is finely detailed and compares favorably with with many larger scale kits. Hull, superstructure, and funnel shapes are correct and capture the ship's elegant lines well.

The waterlined hull particularly is well done, foreign exchange management act ppt in shape, taper and shear; better, in fact, than the earlier Hood or Bismarck units of the series.

There is even a degaussing cable! The separate single piece main deck is also well done with tiny hatches, vents, bitts, a breakwater, ground tackle Torpedo launchers are molded integrally with the deck, but in this small scale they look good. My only gripe with the deck is the total lack of planking detail, which is strange considering that the earlier Hood and Bismarck kits in the series had excellent planking. Even stranger is that planking is present on some of the superstructure decks! Fortunately all this is not that visible once painted.

Other odd design choices are evident with the armament. The same with the 37mm twins: Other parts are good to excellent. Masts, cranes, searchlights, and boats are good although there should be more boatsas are the spherical hooded 4m antiaircraft directors. Even with some less than stellar design choices with the decks and armament, Airfix's little Prinz Eugen builds into an appealing, accurate rendition of that most graceful ship.

The only injection-molded model of this ship we're likely to see, so you have to work with earnest money calculator. Fortunately, you don't have to take it too far.

The shapes look very good to me and the assembled hull looks positively hugeand there are no solid lifelines to remove. Ship is in later configuration with stabilizer fins. Most of the windows on the superstructure are represented by simple raised squares; sand them off and make decals instead. The davits do not line up properly with the promenade windows, so fill the locator holes and place them manually boats should hang above prom deck window sections, with davits mounted in between window sections.

The boats look marvelous and are molded as open boats - consider making resin copies for your Revell Queen Mary. Throw away the kit decals, especially on the re-issue; the typeface for the name on the bow is way off. Not a bad kit by any means, and looks easy to improve. Series 6, ; No of parts: Participiated in the Falkland war. The model represents the ship in her original appearance, with the white funnel and without the later additions on Signal Deck. The problem is fit. There are many small, but annoying gaps that must be filled.

The two hull halves do not align well. It's not that hard to correct, but I've seen better. Still, it looks like this will be a very impressive model when completed. Portrays the ship in her final configuration.

I did not have the fit problems that Leif had. This is arguably Airfix's best ship kit ever. Now all we need is a Renown to go with her Well, it's not perfect but almost. There are minor fitting problems with the deck and some of the scuttles on the superstructure are missing, but otherwise it is just wonderful. The detailing of the side armour can't be described, it has to be seen. And the deck has even the deck camber curvature!

The model and camouflage represents Repulse as she was when she sunk Dec Really an excellent kit. The deck houses including the platforms are in two parts, the boundary goes right in the middle of the platforms. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine May The ASROC launcher is bogus, assembled as if it was two layers of tubes instead of boxes. Put plastic card on top and sides to represent box shape; etch the cell divisions. This kit was so close to being good. The SPSC 3D antenna is incorrect as is the SPS 38 or SPS 40 depending which time frame is chosen.

As mentioned the ASROC pepperbox is awful. The rest of the ship is not bad. The ship is missing all it's Whip antennas. This may seem trivia, but think. First there are the easiest things to add to almost any kit.

Second, they are pretty easy to research and last; when you see a picture of any ship you can't help but notice all the antennas everywhere! I believe GGM makes a SPSC. FAIR I'm a bit more forgiving of the deck houses than Leif is. It's only a minor nuissance. I do like the hull. Bilge keels are nicely molded in. The separate propeller guards look nice. If you're looking to do conversions, the hull's got the later bow-mounted SQS sonar dome as opposed to the earlier keel mounted style That's fine for the Rommel, or the other Bundesmarine Adams class, but if you're going to try to convert it to a USN Adams class, then you'll have to either do DDG through 24, or perform some major surgery on the bow.

Brooks is right about the ASROC launcher. I missed that one! The ASROC launcher in the kit looks like eight individual tubes rather than a segmented box. As Randy points out above, this kit has lots of conversion potential.

This miniscule Santa Maria molding originated as a Gowland Shipyard "Ships in Bottles" release in ; it was among the first injection molded plastic model ships ever marketed.

Airfix also issued it in without the bottle as the second unit of their Series 1 "Historical Ship" kits. It was issued again by Addar as one of their "Super Scenes" in a bottle in In the early s Airfix also reissued the kit, this time reworked with a full hull and stand replacing the sea base and acetate ratlines.

This revised version was produced in the s by Heller kitin brown plastic as well. Out of production as ofthe kit can still be found fairly easily on online auctions and at model swap meets. Columbus' Santa Maria Holy Mary is one of the world's most famous ships, but her exact appearance remains a matter of conjecture and debate. Some experts believe the Mariagalante "Party-Girl Mary", the ship's original name before Columbus changed it more the politically correct Santa Maria was a Portuguese style naoothers that it was a carabela caravel.

The model's hull shape matches that reconstruction fairly well. For a kit this old and this small, the little Santa Maria is not bad. The separate one-piece deck has delicate raised plank markings, stairs, and a hatch. The hull and deck are simplified, but the details present are well rendered and the unit is so tiny that the effect is good.

Checkpoint

Unfortunately, everything above the deck is out of scale. The mainmast, for example, is some 25 scale feet too high. The too tall, too thick masts support massive wind-filled sails that overpower the little hull. The flags printed on a separate sheet of paper are also too large. If you want an early pre-Atlantic bow Scharnhorst, this is the one. Kit dates back to about This is Scharnhorst as built, not in WW2 shape. I bought a new one three years ago and converted it to Gneisenau The kit was in the same good shape as my first in or The bilge keel is missing like in most old Airfix kits.

I have two of these and in both cases I was not particularly pleased. My problem probably stems from my earlier exposure to the Airfix RepulseNarvik and Prinz Eugen models. The last being my stimulus for purchasing the Scharnhorst. I expected this model to have all the excellent products gun mounts of the previous two German models. That of course was not the case.

So lets start there. All the secondary and AA gun calibers are way below Airfix standards. How this happened has to be a mystery. On the other hand the main guns are very nice. A little void of detail but nice depending on the source, maybe even better than the Revell kit.

The 01 level seems to have an excessive amount of overhang. From the photos I have seen, this feature seems to be exaggerated. The deck engraving here seems a bit crude as well. The entire superstructure seems to have suffered the exact same fate during development at that of the Graf Spee.

It seems squat and out of proportion to the rest of the ship. The Scharnhorst class was a sleek and beautiful design, this is not evident in this kit the, to the degree of the Revell model.

Over all the kit may actually fall into the poor category with the Bismarck. There's a good article on building and converting this kit in the June issue of Airfix Magazine, pg GOOD I like this one. It's pretty good for its day. It's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but the basics are all there. The bilge keels are missing, as are two of the four propellers. Superstructure levels are molded into the decks below them, which can make painting difficult.

Lattice masts are not that great, photo-etch would be better but OK for their day. This ship also has some excellent modification potential. Airfix Magazine's March issue has a good article on conversions. The hull is perfect for making Fiji-class AKA Colony-class cruisers. Guns and many superstructure parts can be obtained from an Airfix Belfast.

This is a model of Tiger before the conversion. Lines of rafts included. This is the Bismarck model with two torpedo-tubes added, no other changes.

At least sometimes, packages came with two ships. Issued as a pair, each Tribal consists of 20 cleanly molded gray plastic parts. As with others in the series, the waterlined hull is a single part with a solid bottom and separate single-piece main deck. There is even part of the undercut below the stern, as if the pattern maker had begun to produce a full hull model and then abandoned the effort part way through. Otherwise things look good. There are simplifications one would expect in this scale such as the molded to the deck torpedo tubes and solid open bridgebut there are no basic accuracy problems.

Surface detailing is delicate and restrained. This is a nice little kit, and one of the very few injection plastic destroyers ever issued in this scale. The first big Airfix ship. The kit is sound, but low in detail. Needs a lot of detailing to look good. The mast and the guns are clumsy. Detail is decidedly lacking. Good painting instructions would have helped. This kit is said to be about 22 inches long when complete.

It is said to portray the ship in This kit represents the Warspite after her refit. The biggest problems are the bow, kit has a bulb bow instead of a ram bow and the quarterdeck.

Once again, there is the problem of the "flash suppressors" on the main guns. Superstructure is decent, gun turrets are nice, and the casemate 6" guns are fragile, but nice. A very good model for its time. Series 9, Classic Historical Ships I have one half built, it's not too bad, needs some filling etc. Includes a Sherman tank from the regular Airfix line. Their web site is http: NATO code name "Akula", Russian code name "Shchuka-B". The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature.

Since the end of the Cold War, we have learned their correct project designation and even their internal code name, "Akula" The Project SSBNs Russian "Akula", NATO "Typhoon" should not be confused with the Project SSNs. Russian "Shchuka-B", NATO "Akula".

Presumably a close relative of the Gearing, below. For comparison, check out the Skywave Sumner class. Not the very best I've ever seen, but reasonably good, and the price is right. Superstructure detail is a bit lacking, but the hull is pretty nice. Watch out for sink holes, though!

The 40mm guns aren't that good, so I replaced them with parts from the Skywave WW2 USN parts set. Like its Skywave competitor, this kit give the builder the option of using either the second set of torpedo tubes aft, or a third 40mm quad mount.

Unlike the Skywave kit, it gives the builder the option of building the "DDR" radar picket variant. This is a very basic model, with very minimal detail. There are about 50 pieces in the kit, and the instructions are a one page blow up diagram. The instructions have some suggestions for ease of assembly.

The kit does not include decals. The basic model is molded as a waterline hull, with the deckhouses and depth charge racks, molded in place. The superstructure and bulkheads have absolutely no detail to it, just a series of flat side moldings. There are anchor chains molded in place, and the stern 20mm tub, but that's it. The builder must add the upper decks to the deckhouses, as well as the gun tubs.

The dual 5" mounts aren't too bad, and the dual 40mm are also finely cast. But they're too tall. They stand too high on their pedestals.

The tops of the guns are level with the midway point of the funnels. And the single 20mm are also too tall. Those stand just about as tall as the dual 5" mounts. It is recommended that they be shortened to be less conspicuous or pilfer them from a Skywave set.

The tripod mast amidship is cast very finely, as is the mainmast. But the main mast's radar was cast as a see-through piece, and in this scale, it's very difficult to make it realistic. In addition, while the 5" director base is OK, the radar screens are even taller than the 5" mount.

Lastly, the torpedo mounts are cast pretty well, and one mount even has the 5" flash protector housing. Overall it's not a bad kit, and could use some dressing up with a brass set. But it's nowhere near as detailed as the Skywave Gearing class destroyer.

Looking at the hulls side by side, the freeboard on the Albatross hull looks better. On the Skywave hull, it's pretty shallow. Also, thesheer line on the Albatross hull is more pronounced, whereas that on the Skywave hull is more gentle. The Skywave hull is generally a flatter hull. For comparison, check out the Skywave Gearing class. Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the MPC re-issue of this kit.

From about toAMT was owned by Matchbox, and issued a few Matchbox kits under their own label. Racing Champions later RC2 bought AMT inand shut it down in After a confusing period of lease arrangements, Round 2 Corp. AMT plastic car models still show up in hobby shops, but they are manufactured in China.

The current AMT Website: Reissue of Matchbox kit. This is a reissue of the s Matchbox kit of Exeter as she appeared during her famous encounter with the Graf Spee off the Rio de la Plata in Like its Matchbox predecessor, this kit is molded in two colors, a dark green and a light grey.

Moldings are sharp with most detail raised. Unlike the Japanese waterline series kits of the era, the hull is split into right and left halves, with the decks and base plate separate.

This arrangement unfortunately leaves a long, prominent seam where the main deck meets the hull. Worse, the thin, slender hull sides are vulnerable to warpage Once these challenges are addressed, though, the hull looks very good. Detail is decent with the multitude of portholes on the hull represented as tiny raised circles. The kit also captures the distinctive forward knuckle pretty well, a feature often missed. Superstructures, especially the aft superstructure and hangar, are a bit simplified and almost bereft of detail, but the open sides on the bridge are well represented.

Small parts vary in quality. The anchors, secondary guns and masts are rather nice, but the crane, Walrus aircraft, floats, davits and boat mountings are mediocre to poor. I would also have preferred some depiction of planking on the main deck, which is completely smooth. Still and all, the kit assembles into a good representation of Exeter. The Axxx serial numbers look like they are out of a catalogue, and do not represent the letter codes on the model boxes. The numerals are of course correct.

I don't understand why, on destroyers, the kit instructions mostly do not agree with the colour instructions Aoshima must have the lowest standard of quality control of any Japanese model firm. US importers should take this into account when pricing the kits! I cannot agree more with the GH's comment above. The price-to-value ratio is just too high for most Aoshima kits. It seems only worth it, if the kit is the only one for a particular subject you are looking for.

Not the greatest things you've ever seen, but not the worst either. Includes Yak VSTOL fighters and Ka helos. Another Unryu-class light carrier, Amagi was a quick-fix attempt to rebuild the Combined Fleet after the Battle of Midway disaster. Amagi was doomed to never saw combat, except on the receiving end of USN airpower. She was bombed during outfitting and rolled over during an aerial attack in late July Unlike the Pit-Road kit, Aoshima's kit is based on the older Unryu kit with minor modifications.

Fine Molds has made a separate photo-etch set to enhance the details. FAIR Like Nenohibut light AA not so good - use spare triple light AA from Nenohi for this one! See also notes under Hatsuharu-class. FAIR Good hull and superstructure. Lots of flash, and some heavy and light AA guns were not fully formed. Trim main gun barrels and replace masts. Will make a good model. Fit is late war. See notes on Aoshima Takao-classincluding a review by Bill Swan. Note there has been an announcement by Aoshima of a newly tooled Bismarck to replace the above kit sometime in April of The supposed stock number is It can't help but be better than this kit.

This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the red plastic waterline plate. The basic shape of the hull is OK and maybe the turrets but everything else is just awful. There is little to no molded in surface detail. The deck is divided into three ill fitting parts that left gaps in the main deck in two places that were very difficult to fix. The rest of the parts fit poorly and were either clunky or over scale or both. The AA battery and ship's boats are especially bad.

The model depicts Chitose in her seaplane tender configuration before she was converted to a CVL in Above average for Aoshima, this kit is comparable to contemporary offerings by Hasegawa or even some of the less inspired Tamiya efforts. The hull shape is good, with convincingly replicated portholes and anti torpedo blisters on the sides. Decks have delicate linoleum retaining strips, ground tackle, and various other details accurately molded in. An interesting feature is alternate stern parts to depict either the as built standard stern or the special modified opening stern fitted to Chiyoda to deploy midget submarines.

Chitose probably didn't have this modification, but the stern and a minisub are included anyway. These flush-decked ships had quite a bit going on topside with ventilators, boats, cranes, catapults, seaplanes, and assorted plane handling gear in evidence.

All of this was fairly well designed with a minimum of seams and, rare for Aoshima, crisp molding with only a few sink marks! The foredeck and fantail are separate parts, but they fit fairly well so this doesn't create any problems.

The bridge structure is especially good, with four well fitting levels and even a representation of windows. Smaller parts are nothing special, but acceptable.

Recent releases have contained Leviathan upgrade sets which include much improved weapons, aircraft, searchlights, boats and other parts which make this basically good kit even better.

You can spot the new issues by the ill-fitting box; Aoshima deepened the lower box to accomodate the extra sprues, but the original smaller boxtop is retained, leaving a gap at the bottom.

I built my Chitose in the days before photoetch, but another worthwhile upgrade would be the Gold Medal Models photoetch IJN Auxiliary Ship set which replaces many of the injection molded masts, cranes, catapults, and girders so prominent on this ship. This set, complementing the competently rendered basic kit parts, could make this a really standout model. Light carrier converted from passenger liner Nitta Maru. Kit comes with standard tree of IJN aircraft although she was not fitted out with arresting gear or catapults.

Primarily used to transport aircraft.

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All three carriers of the class conversion were sunk by US subs. Chuyo "High Seas Falcon" was lost on 4 December to USS Sailfish. Nice hulland superstructure, nice coamings. Superstructure is undetailed, all AA guns are oversize and should be replaced by Leviathan sets. Main gun barrels need to be cleaned up.

Light AA around bridge is wrong, should be two pairs each position not just one. Likewise, two twin AA needed extra aroundfunnels. Otherwise, model accurately represents Fuso in The box art shows the ship correctly, interestingly. See Gernot Hassenpflug's reviews under Nenohi and Ariake. Presumably, this kit has been issued as:.

Good basic hull, but lots of sink holes to repair. Deck good without raised painting lines. Coaming thin enough, but guns poor. Luckily 2 Leviathan sets provided to replace all small parts AA guns, searchlights, boats etc. Overall shape and guns OK, octuple 2 pdr pompoms are trash. If you can afford to salvage them from a Revell ARK ROYALor from a waterline KING GEORGE V do so.

Some sink holes, easily filled, and except for masts all parts are acceptable. Flash is also easily removed. See also Gernot Hassenpflug's comments under Shiranui. OK Nice hull and superstructure. Replace all small parts with Leviathan sets. Torpedo tubes are poor, as are all gun barrels.

Kit represents ship late in war. Sister ships Kuma and Nagara are also available in different fits. This is an injection molded plastic kit. Most parts are provided in medium gray plastic with clear parts for windows and a black sprue for the display base. A small sheet of photo etch is provided for jackstaffs and platform supports, no photo etch for cranes, catapults, rails or other details is provided.

Like Hasegawa and Fujimi, Aoshima has gotten into the supplementary parts business and provides at extra cost photo etch sets to further detail this kit. In addition the kit also provides a flag sheet, poly caps for rotating guns, anchor chain and some metal screws to fix the finished model to a base. All parts are clean and crisply molded with excellent surface detail. This too is a first rate kit that will please just about any modeler.

The deck is broken into pieces that conform to the varied heights of the hull halves so joints should not be a problem. Painting will be more difficult than a Fujimi kit as much of the deck detail is molded on. Hull is divided into two halves and uses a bracing system with traverse bulkheads similar to those found in the Hasegawa and Fujimi kits with one critical difference.

Provision has been made to waterline this vessel. Incised lines go across the hull pieces at the waterline allowing the modeler to easily cut the lower hull off. Hull detail is decent with an attempt being made to indicate plating, however the lines are continuous with no vertical joints indicated. Weapons, aircraft and equipment are nicely rendered and on a par with the newest issues.

While there are, thankfully, no Aztec steps you will want to replace the provided plastic inclined stairs with photo etch. You may or may not be satisfied with the plastic catapult and crane. I thought they were just fine. I believe that most modelers will be more than happy to pick up some inclined ladders and railing in photo etch and skip the more expensive upgrades for this kit.

Color call outs appear to be for Creos Aqueous and Mr Color paints. Painting instructions are provided by a huge, poster sized color rendition of the model.

Colorful but thin cardboard box into which all the parts have been tightly fitted with a thin cardboard buffer for the PE and to keep the parts from shifting too much in the box. All parts are bagged so plastic rash is minimized.

The system works very well and no parts were damaged in my kit. Excellent box top art is provided as well as photos on the sides of the completed model. All in all the exterior packaging is pleasing and makes you want to buy this kit unlike the simply awful photos found on the exterior bottom of the recently released Zvezda Dreadnought. Aoshima in the past produced many a dog of a kit, however, the new issues from this company show huge improvement in casting and attention to detail.

These are world class kits. As to kit parts and quality please see my review of AoshimaKinu. A sister ship, Tama, is available in a later war fit. While the kits are similar they are not identical by any means. The ships look somewhat alike. However, Kinu is part of the Nagara Class consisting of Nagara, Kinu, Isuzu, Yura, Natori and Abukuma and Kuma was the lead ship of a previous class of ships consisting of Kuma, Kiso, Kitakami, Oi and Tama. The Nagaras had a greater displacement tons to tons and they were about 10 meters longer and slightly wider than the Kumas.

Layout and armament were very similar. These two classes of ships made up almost half of the IJN light cruiser fleet. Some parts are off-scale.

Make sure that you dry fit ALL parts before glueing. Some scratch building is needed to make a presentable model. Landing deck has raised parts to aid painting -- these should be preferably sanded down. Make a note of the patterns they are correctand then sand away -- mask to reproduce the patterns.

See also notes under Kiev-class. FAIR For an Aoshima kit, very commendable. Hull has a detailed deck, but portholes have to be drilled yourself. Bridge detail is also lacking, but all coamings are acceptably thin. Triple light AA is good, but the twins which the kit requires are poor. Keep triples for spares. Masts too thick, and most parts have a lot of easily removable flash.

Makes a good model. This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the included waterline plate. There is no photo etch included. This kit is just awful. The shape of the hull is wrong, the deck detail is poor. The assembly process leaves a gap in the deck from the poorly fitted bow piece. The 20 mm guns are so hugely out of scale that they look like Roman shields with spears sticking out of the middle. There is practically no surface detail on the gun turrets and superstructure parts, the main battery turrets are the wrong shape.

The cranes and catapults are solid castings with little detail. The only thing going for this kit is that it is cheap. A summary in two words: FAIR Basic hull and bridge, portholes need drilling, deck is good though.

Some flash to be removed. Light AA poor, gunhouses basic but look accurate. Good basic hull, less sink holes than Hiryudeck has raised painting detail though but very nice detail. Thin coamings, poor small parts but 2 Leviathan sets remedy this. The kit has been re-issued by Minicraft. The re-issue was reviewed by Tim Reynaga. OK Hull fine, but fittings look clumsy. Coamings too thick, AA guns reasonable, but main guns need work to make them look realistic.

Boats are best covered! Raised detail on flight deck in place of decals is not a successful idea either. Time to retool or upgrade this one.

Lots of putty needed on the upper hull and deck, fit is rather poor, and there are unfortunately sink holes in awkward places on main parts. Do yourself a favour and acquire references before building this one; it doesn't match up to pictures of the reputedly same ship I have seen.

Deck is also too thick. Light carrier converted from passenger liner Kasuga Maru. Taiyo "Greater Falcon" was lost on 18 August to USS Rasher. A very well detailed new tooling of this kit has been released by Aoshima as kit Please also see Skywave kit W of the Takao. This is an all plastic kit. Surface detail is extremely limited with much of the forward superstructure simply flat and devoid of detail.